First Surf in Tahiti !!

No Pics of the actual surfing, was too keen to surf to worry about taking photos, plus it is a bit overcast today. But damn it is warm and look at the colour of the water, awesomeWhile the boys surfed the girls fishedNew friends, with ” Le Champion “ Benji has the task of cleaning the fishlook at the location we are in Benji is feeding the guts to seagulls flying overhead, and a few sting rays below” Le Champion” inspects the catchlocation, those mountains are on some of the Tahitian currencyhow to kill a fish quicklyOn the way home Benji shows me the secret spot, to get to it, we had to take a windy road through a local village, secret turns etc.. so forget about coming here, as the locals will not appreciate you passing through their front yard. Epic right by the way, but deadly shallow. I’ll skip and stick to the lefts 🙂

>

Now the story behind “Le Champion ” the cutest, and fiercest little dog of Tahiti. Benji regularly goes out surfing the reef breaks in his boat with his dog Badaul accompanying him. The boat get tied to a buoy in the chanel, and sits there in the deep water channel, close to the breaking waves.
A few weeks ago, the swell had a bit more west in it that usual and a bigger set came in from the west and broke out wide , so there was a wave breaking towards the boat with Badoul on board, so this wave rolled the boat over. Benji, in the line up saw this so raced back to the turned over boat to find his dog !
Nowhere to be found, he looked all around the boat, then paddles onto the reef, and walked around the reef to look for him, got on a friends boat and sailed around the point, out to sea, back in the channel frantically searching for his dog, as time goes on and the sun is going down, the moment is starting to sink in that Benji has lost his dog.
Remember , this surf spot is a good 800m if not a km out to sea.
Benji finally resigns to the fact that he has lost his dog and with darkness approaches goes back to land and prepares to call his girlfriend Hani to tell her the dreadful news.
Now fast forward to 9:30 at night, when Hani gets a phone call from a local fisherman, who explains he was just going out in his backyard to have a cigarette when he sees a little white dog swim on the beach.
That dog just spent like 4 hours swimming all the way back to shore
That, my friends, is a champion dog . . .  ” Le Champion” and a legend was born 🙂