as I'm walking up to the joey, this is the first wave I see, spewing my body is not up to it surfersi n the line up with a set approaching out the back nice take off straight into the barrel
did not make it out of that one doenside to this swell is that the beach is dissappearing just a narrow strip of sand left and a set wave just washed right up to the edge of the dune, so in this shot, there is no beach left, some one say global warming ?