Amazingly , next day, the surf has picked up big time,brand new swell, with a good 5 foot swell running off the point, nice, except we drive back to Sydney today, so quick surf before we do. Jac's snapped me running back up to the point after having caught a wave all the way down the beach
I'm super stoked , because 1. there are waves, 2. there's a lot of dolphins out there. 3. it's a nice day, the water is warm 4. and there's only 3-4 of us surfing the point ( I counted 80 once on a busy day )
Me, waiting for a lull to jump of the rock Still a few dolphins out there
So the thing is to wait for a little lull in between the set waves and then paddle like crazy , so you don't get caught and pushed back onto the rocks
Me, Dolphin and 2 other surfers, bliss
and this is what it looks like form the water
Nice sized waves rolling in, again, only me and 2 other guys to worry about, so plenty of opportunities to get a good wave ( excuse the water drop )
Now, see-ing this pop out of the water could really scare you, as that looks very similar to . . . something you don't want to come across in the water I was trying to get a shot of the shark dolphin swimming so close to the surfer
The shot above well, you can see me taking the shot here, shot by Jacqui
cool, Jac's has captured me on a wave
bottom turning
Surfing the wave down the beach again
Then to run back up the beach again, jump of the rock, to get back out there again. And all of it captured by Jacqui, the best GF in the world for martyring herself by sitting on a hot rock in the sun , draggin her kids up there, so she can get some shots of me surfing. But she got a nice shot of the girls up there as well